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Search for a book, article, website, film, or enter the information yourself. Do- It- Yourself Book Press – No Media Kings. By Hamish Mac. Donald. UPDATE: Hamish has started a DIY Book podcast! Back in 2. 00. 0, I wrote an article for this website about how to produce your own book. Things have changed considerably since then, both in the technology available to individuals and in the services available in the marketplace. It’s all good news for us independent publishers. The original article was called “DIY Book Production.” Aside from being a clunky term, you now have more power than that: You can be your own press. I now produce my own books at home from start to finish, and in this article will explain what I’ve had to learn and acquire in order to do that. Generally, self- publishing involves an inverse relationship of work to money: The more work you’re willing to do, the more money you can save; the more you want to just skip to an end product, the more it’ll cost you. Self- pub: Four times more options than in 2. When I self- published my first novel, double. Zero, in 1. 99. 9, I wanted to create a book to sell in stores. A big folded- over photocopy sandwich didn’t appeal to me, but I really didn’t know how else one could make a book, so I laid out the pages and the cover, then paid Coach House Press to do the production work.
There may have been other ways to do it, but having written a book about Y2. K, I didn’t have the time to find out. Now, though, there are four main options available: Offset printing. Print- on- Demand. Hand- bound hardcovers. Perfect binding. Here’s a summary of each (with special emphasis on the ones I like!): Offset printing. Offset printing is a high- volume printing method that uses large machinery to transfer text and images from metal plates to rubber pads then finally to paper. Coach House Press is a sterling example of a traditional press who care about their work. Their price was also the best I found — cheaper by $1,5. Cynthia pipes in: I second that recommendation wholeheartedly. The moment I walked into Coach House to discuss the printing of Some Words Spoken, my nervousness dissolved. They are crafty elves who understand the feeling and flavour of books. One of the largest parts of the printing cost is the set up of the colour press. Once it’s up and running, leaving it to print 1,0. BibMe Free Bibliography & Citation Maker - MLA, APA, Chicago, Harvard. By Hamish MacDonald. UPDATE:Hamish has started a DIY Book podcast! Back in 2000, I wrote an article for this website about how to produce your own book. We printed extra covers and stashed them, so when our books sell out (!) and we need another 5. We’ll only have to pay for the black and white guts of the book, and the binding. The colour of the cover might shift when it goes to press. Your pretty proof from the designer might not match the final product. Make sure you get a proof from the printer and make any colour adjustments at that point. Once they’ve burned printing plates, it’s too late for you to be fussy. Pro: You get a lot of books. A large run of books is not much more expensive than a short run. Con: You get a lot of books. Expensive. In 1. 99. I paid $3,0. 00 for a run of 5. Because of the mechanical set- up costs, a short run of books is practically as expensive as a long run. You probably don’t want thousands of books. Even 5. 00 is an awful lot to move. It’s a one- shot deal. What you need: Print- on- Demand. Newer digital printers don’t need to be mechanically adjusted to switch between jobs, so Po. D publishers can print copies of work as needed. I’m fussy about how my work looks, and the one Po. D service I looked into seriously (the reputable Cafe. Press) involves turning your pages into funny- sized PDF files and uploading them to the invisible maw of a webpage. I’m generally comfortable with Internet anything — online banking, making purchases, auctions — but I’m used to revising and reviewing and revising and reviewing until I like what I’ve created; I didn’t feel confident about what I might get from this method and took it no further. So my discussion of Print- on- Demand ends here. Pro: Less expensive than traditional printing. No stockpile of unsold books. Con: Bookstores won’t carry them. Each has to be ordered at a retail price, which stores won’t pay. Stores also can’t return them if they don’t sell, which is the practice they’re accustomed to. The price per book to you, the author/publisher, is often close to the retail price. The cover templates they offer are often yeechy. Some Po. D shops promise and charge for marketing and promotion they have no intention of delivering (listing you in a vast catalogue, for instance, does not count as promotion). The way these businesses pitch themselves plays on the emotions of frustrated yet ambitious authors. What you need: Ultimately I’m happy I didn’t go this route, because instead of tying my work into a company’s Po. D service I learned the following two methods, which have been a fun breakthrough in my career. Hand- bound hardcovers. It’s easier than you might think to create a hardcover book of your work. There are endless fun ways to adapt the handmade book process, too: For Christmas 2. I made all my own presents — journals, photo albums, even a pop- up stage with a wee cartoon actress for a friend of mine who’s in the theatre. These were a real hit. I found it hard to follow even the best of diagrams. I finally got it when I read Peter and Donna Thomas’s excellent Making Books by Hand. Now that I have the hang of it, it’s actually fun, almost therapeutic, to sit and stitch a book together. Producing a novel this way, though, is not so much fun. Where my wee book of short stories or a journal contains ten or twelve “signatures” — sewn- together groups of pages — my third novel makes up twenty- six signatures. That’s a very, very long thread, and a lot of bits of folded- up paper to keep organized while sewing them together. Here’s how to do it yourself: For these next two sections, I’m going to divide the materials section into two options: “Minimum” and “Press”. The minimum requirements will allow you to get started and learn without much initial investment, if any (depending on how much craftsy material you’ve got lying around the house). The “Press” materials are in case you decide, as I did, that you wanted to produce store- quality books at home, without having to go out and pay for commercial print shop services anymore. What you need: Minimum. Press. A completed, typeset manuscript printed out. A finished cover design. A sharp blade and ruler. A rotary- blade guillotine. Your pages will be much more even using one of these. Hard paper board for the covers. I was using matting board like you’d get from a framing shop until I found large grey boards in an art shop that cost a fraction of the price. Bookbinding board is available, but the board will never be seen, so it doesn’t need to be fancy. I’ve tried corrugated cardboard, but it’s too puffy; it doesn’t feel like a proper hardcover. An awl for punching small holes in your pages. Or you can also sink a needle into a piece of dowelling. I use a model- maker’s drill, which is like a watch screwdriver with a 1mm drill bit, and drill through all the pages before folding them. You can also get eggbeater- like hand- drills that will accept a small bit, but I found this harder to control and snapped several bits. Heavy thread. You can run it across beeswax to make it easier to work with and less likely to tangle. Paper. Regular copy paper will do, or you can use an ivory stock for an antiquey look. Heavy paper or paper- backed cloth for wrapping around your cover. This helps you make sharp creases in your pages. More and more art supply shops have bookbinding materials like these. How I do it: Print out the book. Make one mock- up page as your hole guide and use it on smaller groups of pages. Fold the pages with your finger, or bone folder. Group the folded pages into stacks of pages, no more than five or six pages per stack. If you look at any hardcover book in your house closely, you’ll probably find that it’s made up of folded- over groups of pages like this. These are “signatures”. If all the pages were just stacked and folded over, they’d bulge out in a U- shape on the right- hand side. Using smaller groups of pages, or signatures, prevents this. Sew the first signature: in the first hole,out the second hole,in the third hole,out the fourth hole. This makes Signature One. Sew the second signature so it’s joined to the first: into the first hole of Signature Two,out the second hole of Signature Two,back into the second hole of Signature One,out the third hole of Signature One,back into the third hole of Signature Two,out the fourth hole of Signature Two. Others do a better job; see the resources above.)Once all the signatures are stitched, tie the two ends of the thread together, clamp the pages between two hard pieces of board with the spine sticking out, and glue the spine fairly heavily with glue. Leave this clamped together and put it aside to dry. Cut two pieces of board, each the same size as one of your folded pages, and cut a third board just smaller than the spine- width of your sewn- together signatures (which now make up a “book block”). Cut a piece of cover cloth or paper a little bit larger than the size of these boards, allowing some gutter- room between the boards since your cover will need to hinge open and closed easily. Cut a small bit off the four corners diagonally so they won’t bunch up when folded, brush glue on the inside edge, and tuck them in, pressing down so they stay flat. Cut two pieces of decorative paper the same size as your book’s pages and fold them with their fancy side facing inward. When your book block has dried, put a small amount of glue on either end and glue these “end papers” to the block. Smear glue on the inside of your cover and stick the outsides of your end papers to the cover. 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